While Chanzon RGB LEDs are inexpensive, connecting them in a permanent, professional way has been difficult -- until now.
Introducing the Chanzon High Power RGB LED Breakout.
We have 2 variants of this product:
- PCB only + Chanzon LED
- PCB + RGB + Constant Current Regulator - fully assembled and soldered
Simply tack solder onto the RGB LED's leads to secure it to the breakout board. The recessed hole allows the back of the LED to be attached to a commodity heat sink on the older side. We solder this for you in the fully assembled version.
WARNING: You must operate the Chanzon with a heatsink, otherwise you risk overheating, which will destroy the LED (and possibly cause magic smoke, burning, etc). Don't even run it for a little bit, as it can heat very quickly.
Simply connect your LED driver circuit to pins 1, 2, and 3.
if you are not familiar with the Chanzon, be careful, it is EXTREMELY BRIGHT. Never look directly at the LED without eye protection. Point it at something else to look at the reflection. While we don't have exact ratings, we think that the LED is somewhere between 60W and 75W incandescent lightbulb equivalent.
Constant Current Regulator Option
However, for those who want to further construct an integrated device, we also offer 3x of the BCR420UW6-based Linear constant current regulators populated. Using these constant current regulators, you can drive this high powered LED with simple PWM signals from your Arduino, Raspberry Pi or other microcontroller.
- Chanzon 10 Watt RGB LED included with all options (PCB and Fully Assembled)
- 3x BCR420UW6 Constant Current Drivers paired with 3 ohm resistors (Fully assembled only)
- 12V input (for LED)
- PCB cutout allows back of LED to sit flush with PCB, perfect for heat sinks!
- 3 ports to directly access the R, G, and B channels when using your own Constant Current Driver
- 3.3V and 5V logic compatible, allowing you to use any Arduino or Raspberry Pi PWM signal to to drive the Constant Current Driver
- Optional pads for decoupling capacitors on 12V side
- Beautiful white PCB
WARNING: Be sure to attach a heat sink (not supplied) to the back of your LED. There are a variety of inexpensive heatsinks sold online with adhesive backings.
Connect the + and - of the PWR terminal to a 10-12V power supply. This will provide maximum brightness.
Connect the G pin (next to pin 1, 2 and 3) to your microcontroller ground. Without connecting this pin, your LED will "float" and the PWM signals will not impact the LED's color.
Note that if you connect nothing to the G, 1, 2, 3 pins, or pins 1, 2 or 3 are not configured as outputs, the LED will "float" and the corresponding channel will be dimly lit. It is probably okay to test this way without a heat sink, as it will not generate much heat.
To light up a particular channel, you can use the following Arduino code. "x" is simply the Arduino pin number you wish to use.
to Light up a channel at maximum brightness, you can do something like:
To turn off a channel:
However, a lot of times, we will want to pick an actual color, other than the 8 you can generate with just HIGH and LOW. This is where analogWrite is extremely useful.
To set your brightness level of a channel, you can use the following, where "brightness" is how bright the LED should be:
There are also many PWM RGB LED libraries that can be used to drive this LED. Feel free to use this